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An unexpected medieval flag contest

So I was a little bummed out that I missed the Cortona medieval fair with the flag throwing contest because I could not figure out the train/bus combo..

Turns out that Arezzo is getting ready for their joust on the weekend we leave (we will miss) and this afternoon was their flag contest.  I heard the drums of the parade as I was skyping with Brian so I ran out to see it.. I am so fortunate to be staying less than a block away from Piazza grande..

So I was able to see them march in have their contest and everything.. Very cool, .

The march in.

The first group did routines with one one flag.

The second group had two.

hard to get in the picture but they threw flags up really high and often switched.. they put jugglers to shame.

They left quickly after the final flag.. I could hear them marching around town. They have performed at other Piazzas.

Soon it was just Piazza Grande again.

Assisi on Saturday

So for my final trip I went with Jim and Amy to Assisi... The town was nice, but very commercialized on St. Francis and St. Clare. Lots of Souvenir stands for sure. 

Most guide books recommend, take a bus to the top and work done.. Unlike Orvieto,  Assist is on a top of a hill but is not flat at all.  So the higher points are at the top, and then you work down.  

We stopped at the Discovery Station at the train station and we found a group of Americans doing a children's science museum.  They were very helpful and gave us great directions. 

We started at Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli (Church of St. Mary of the Angels) .. This was down the hill near the train station.  

First thing you see is the fountains at the side of the building. 

You have to go pretty far back to get the whole church.

This church was nice, lots of frescos etc..  The claim to fame is that St. Francis got his calling here, and during the 1997 earthquakes 2 art historians and 2 monks were killed when the frescos crashed down.   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_Santa_Maria_degli_Angeli

Next we caught the bus up the hill.. and had lunch as we waited for the Church of St. Clare to open.  There was a great view.  

the courtyard outside the St. Clare church. 

So this site is so touristy.. so in looking for Francis's house, we were invited to this "museum" that looked like a organized hoarder who owned a sharpie.   As we looked around they had materials and things from the time of St. Francis.. (allegedly).. one of the things that he had was a set of Chastity belts both male and female.. I did not think they made male chastity belt..  So Amy and I were commenting on it..  and the man, rolled up a paper to show us how the male part of the belt worked! Yikes..

The man's demonstration for us.. I had to take a picture, so anyone would believe me)

Next we found the real home of Francis..   They had turned a little storage room into a chapel and it had a great window.  Since so many pilgrims travel to Assisi there are little pop up churches all over.  

This is the Church of Minerva where Francis is said to have gone to church as a child. It used to be a Roman building.. can you tell?

This is the Basicila of St. Francis had three levels - Upper, Lower and Crypt where Francis and his friends were buried. 

upper basilica

courtyard at lower basilica

View from the .60 Euro bathroom in the courtyard.. worth every cent and going into the Men's room to see it!

This is one of the ancient water fountains that people could fill their bottles at .

 

Assisi was okay. but I admit I am tired. 

I had a text from Bridgette to see about apertivo.. and we met her at Bar Stefano. 

Then I talked her into Dinner at Marianos.. The new restaurant next to OUA.. I like the owner he is fun and a flirt, so we can in for dinner.. IT is a little pricey but was good.. I had tomato soup and we both had a mixed meat platter. 

I finally tried grappe.. and won't be doing it again.. YUCK. 

but we had a nice Tiramisu made with a touch of beer.


after that and the wine of the night,  I went to sleep and slept hard.   Sunday is a catch up day.

Orvieto Friday June 6th

I had wanted to go to Cartona on Friday, because they were having their medieval festival (this is the city from Under the Tuscan Sun).. but Cartona is tricky.. The last train is 7pm ish.. and most things don't start until 7 or 9 pm.. so really the only way to enjoy it is to stay there..  Also its tricky to get to the train,  so I decided not to go..  

I was talking to Bridgette and she said she liked Orvieto.  This was an Umbrian hilltop town.. (which I was entranced by when driving in from Rome) and it was about 1.5 hours away. When you arrive you take a funicular from the train station to the hilltop town, so getting up there, is not a big deal.   

So after I took the short funicular ride, I got to the top of the hill and went to a park that had awesome views. here are few: 

park Entrance

was trying to capture the side of the cliff to see the rocks.  

Throughout Orvieto the city was built with pumice like volcanic rock. 

I stopped on the Corso Italia for Lunch to try to famous Orvieto wine. It was really good and refreshing.. 

I also had Orvieto Sausage so good.. and a tomato salad. 

I ended the meal with fresh strawberries and cream.

I went on to look around the town.   I saw a church that had the seals on it again.. The seals tell the story of the town.  Many of the towns in Tuscany have a Florence shield to show their occupation of Medici family of the region. 

See the seals on the church in the Piazza. 

Next I went to the Passe de Cave. This was a giant well that was built by a Pope to protect the city from warring factions.  Generally you don't attack a town that has good clean water, you want them as your friend.. 

Translation of the well inscription. 

St. Patrick's Well

There were also Etrusian trash pits that told about the life of early settlers.  

Walking down through the city there were narrow streets and cute passageways filled with stores.

It was difficult to find the Duomo its off the beaten path the left and the town was filled with American Tourists lost and wandering around.  I am realizing that I am getting better at navigating. Its huge so when you find it, you are like "duh!!" 

There is no such thing as a simple church in Italy.. and this one may be one of my favorites. 

The sides of each door are doors designed in the 60's by a sculpture/painter Emelio Greco. 

To Give you a sense of perspective..that is me in Front..
 

I looked at the Duomo, the Emilio Greco Museum, and the Papal Collection.  

you could not take pictures inside of any of them.. but they were a sight to see.  Here is someone who published a page of pictures: http://www.bluffton.edu/~sullivanm/italy/orvieto/cathedral/duomo.html

The Emilo Greco museum was small but great. His museum was attached because he designed the metal doors of the Duomo in the 60's. but his work was much more about the human form, and I really enjoyed them.  They were sensual but not sexual. and found it interesting that this museum was a combo ticket with a church..   https://www.google.com/search?q=emilio+greco&es_sm=91&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=KyGUU-quCaqQ0AW3zoDYCA&ved=0CKkBEIke&biw=1991&bih=1099

The papal collection was a lot of frescos and paintings but pictures were not allowed. 

after visiting these museums I decided I should come back down the hill to the funicular.  

I ran across a park called Anello della rupe that was totally empty but with amazing views.  I was there all by myself so it was a nice contemplative moment. 

As I left the park with its pretty flowers,  i heard the school across the street let out for the year. That level of joy is apparent in any language! 

I continued my walk to the funicular and got a few pictures as we descended the hill. 

When I got the bottom of the hill, i realized I had read the train schedule wrong and had two hours to kill.. so I decided to have an afternoon snack and found this great and friendly local bar and pasterierie. 

I took the train back to Arezzo.. and when I arrived I was sooo tired.. it had been a hot and long day..  but I stopped in Piazza San Francesco for a drink and apertivo (which became dinner)..   and they were having an Opera concert for free.. Arezzo is a fun little town.